The Quest for the Elusive Butanding! (Donsol Part 2)

It started off pretty bad. Our Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO), Romel, came at around 7 AM, while we waited for our breakfast to arrive. After hastily swallowing our meal we went off, all a-flutter, to see some Whale Sharks. Romel warned us that the Whale Sharks this morning would be difficult to spot since it rained early that morning and the Whale Sharks tend to swim deeper once they taste the fresh water near the surface. Still, we were optimistic. The Spotter took his place on a high beam in the front of the boat. You have to admire his stamina. He stayed up there balancing on a single bamboo pole, like a tight rope, for most of the trip, in the heat of the summer sun. Every time our spotter pointed to a possible sighting, we all jumped out of our seats with my cousin shouting “Gear up, girls!” only to find that we lost it or that another boat has beaten us to it. We've had several Dolphin sightings but they were quite far. To say the least, we were all disappointed.

Now, the rules clearly states that each boat can only take a 3-hour trip. As time flew, my heart sank lower and lower. These Butandings were the only reason I came to Donsol. If I did not see any, I just wasted a lot of money and 2 days of vacation leave. Romel could see how downhearted my companions and I were,and we could see the sheer frustration in Romel's face. He assured us that we would extend the 3-hour limit for us and that we would not be going home until we saw a Whale Shark. Still, my optimism could not be revived. Whale Sharks were abundant in the morning and it was fast getting late. I stood at the front of the boat trying to find some comfort in the sea breeze when I heard Romen shouting orders in Bicolano to the boat's driver. I turned to see my companions quickly putting on their gear. I followed, not knowing if this was yet another disappointment. We sat on the side of the boat on either side of Romel, as instructed.

The signal came: “Jump!”

I plunged ad swam as fast as I could away from the boat, afraid to get caught in the propeller. Then, Romel said quickly: “Look down!” Not bothering with my mouthpiece, I drove my head into the waters...

The Butanding swam slowly, not 2-feet beneath me. If I extend my leg, I could have probably grazed its dorsal fin. It was enormous! Romel later said that it was around 7-meters long. Wow! We followed it as it swam deeper and deeper, until it was out of sight. It was bliss!

We continued on, eager smiles and hands closed over our swimming masks. I made my way to the front of the boat once more, hoping to be able to spot another. In a few minutes, another signal came frm the spotter. Romel shouted directions to the driver: “Left! Intersect! Neutral, NEUTRAL!!!” I hastily fumbled into my mask and sat on the side of the boat. “JUMP!” I did. My mask was askew, I swallowed murky, plankton-rich salt water. There was water coming in my nose. I struggled to adjust my mask. It was chaos! Romel barked instructions and I, coughing and kicking, tried my best to follow.

“Look down! Look DOWN!!!!” came Romel. I sucked in a deep breath and plunged... All became silent...

How to describe that feeling when my head disappeared into the water that second time? Fear? Excitement? Joy? Shock? All the words seem like an understatement compared to what I truly felt. Awe, perhaps, is as close as it gets. As soon as my head dove under the surface, it was as if everything stopped: time, sound, people around me. Right before me loomed the face of the most magnificent giant I have ever seen (I am not exaggerating!). The width of its head was over twice the width of my body and its mouth just as wide. It was large enough to swallow me effortlessly and it was coming straight at me! Instead if scurrying out of its way, I was frozen on the spot, too awestruck to be afraid. I just stayed that way for several seconds, as if the whole world did not exist. Then, I began to take notice of a little blue box tied to my wrist! My disposable underwater camera!

“Picture! Picture!” My head screamed. Even my brain was too stunned to form complete sentences. I fumbled with my camera, trying to take a few shots before the Butanding went down and swam under me. I pursued. I could have followed it further down if not for the dratted life vest (Damn safety precautions!).

Simply beautiful! Magnificent! Majestic! Graceful! Huge! I could go on and on. The experience was breathtaking. Spiritual, even. It was like being face-to-face with a creature of myth or fantasy. When you've been able to swim with a Butanding, riding dragons or petting unicorns don't seem too far fetched. When you can swim with giants, you can conquer the world!

As the late, great Steve Irwin would say: “Crikey! What a Beauty!”

We had no more sightings after that. Too bad since on other days, a boat can have up to 8 sightings in one morning. But we were lucky. Other boats who set out with us had to turn back without a single sighting. Besides, I don't think others came as close as we did. We returned at around 1:30 pm, cheerfully relating our own personal experiences. It was only day 2 and the trip was already well worth it!

I am definitely making another trip to Donsol in the future.